21-09-13

Autumn Wines

There is only one advantage about the end of summer and it's called autumn. We can (finally) open our good red wines again, the foodshops are flooded with mushrooms, pumpkins and quinces and some quite interesting culinary possibilities present themselves again. And yes, some wines seem to long for this season and fit particularly well into it. But where as some whites and rosés are even for the mainstream public linked to spring or summer, autumn seems to be a bit more difficult.

A few weeks ago there was an intersting discussion on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/269698779797915/permal...) about autumn wines. I voted for Jura, old Burgundy and good Bordeaux, but my words were hardly cold before I taste the perfect autumn wine...and it was a Chinon.

Marc Plouzeau is in the world of natural wine probably less well know as François Plouzeau of the Domaine de la Garrelière, and I found this bottle in a very good wine shop annex restaurant in Eupen, of all places ! http://www.delcoeur.be/de/vinothek.php

The Rive Gauche, Chinon, M PLouzeau, 2010 costs 9,4 euro and is, of course, a 100% cabernet franc. My first impression was that of fresh fruit with a real bite, so typical for a good young vin naturel. Of course it also smelled of paprika and potatocellar (a good give away for the grape, but you have to be a Belgian to make this link I think), but after whirling it around in the glass there were also some autumnal elements, even something like peat. The mouth was also filled with fruit and touches of peat, and with nice tannines, it seemed a great food wine and a good Chinon, but nothing more, so I put it in the fridge to see what it would do.

Kazam ! Pow ! Flash ! Woodsmoke, sunday roast, mushrooms, dried fruit, it all jumped up from the glass when the wine was warmed up a bit. It was fresh, complex and so good it made me almost cry...This is a september morning in the forest, when you feel the force of nature in autumn, these strong masculine smells, a mix of animal, soil and fresh air, for the very first time cold after the warm summer nights, a smell full of promises of what next months will bring, and somewhere in the neighbourhood a fire is burning.

Day 3 (and 4) delivered a ripe fine Bordeaux smell-alike, Pomerol in a fresh year like 2004, all previous elements melted together in one. Exactly as a long cellared wine should taste. It would make a fantastic wine with beef (the tannines seem stronger and more active now).

It's been a while since I was so impressed by a wine, and I think I'm going to get some to put in the cellar of my parents, for sunday roasts in the years to come. And at this price this is absolutely a good investment !!    

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