Pizza and natural wines: the Pizzarium in Clermont-Ferrand
I have allways felt that it is both stupid and dangerous to drive from Holland, Belgium or Calais in one day to your holiday destination in the South of France, and most of all, I've allways felt that by doing this you miss out on one of the nicest regions of France: the Auvergne.
And where most tourists consider Clermont-Ferrand only as a city name you see for a while during your trip on the motorway direction signs, it is actually a beautiful town, situated on a hilltop with medieval streets and squares, two beautiful cathedrals, one gothic and one roman, and many good restaurants and shops.
Spending some time there in july, on our way to the Roussillon, I wanted to eat in a place that would satisfy both us and the kids. Would pizza do ? Yes, said the kids. Would natural wine do ? Yes, said the parents. And so we went to the Pizzarium...
This pizzeria is situated in the Rue de l'Ange, a small street in the environment of the Place de Jaude, the big townsquare of Clermont-Ferrand, a bit away of the streets on the hill, but something to see. It serves pizza's made with vegetables from a local bio-shop and non-pasteurized "lait cru" cheeses. They also serve some really good biodynamic or natural wines, and a few fabulous bio drinks for the kids (mine loved it!). You can pick your style of pizza, Roman, Gallic, Greek of Barbarian. I went for the Toutatis, with four local cheeses, but was sorely tempted by one with black pudding (I did not dare). Great pizza's !
We had a very nice rosé wine with this, the Corent, Côtes d'Auvergne, J-P Pradier, 2012, a local one, with fresh fruit in the nose and a nice zip including structure, excellent for the hot temperatures then. Afterwards I started talking to the owner and he gave me a list of all winemakers in the region that work bio and/or natural.
Absolutely a good adress when travelling with kids (or just loving pizza or vin naturel). A few streets away is La Régalade, in the Rue Nestor-Perret, with a very good reputation for its food and winelist, but without pizza...so maybe without kids...
I'll be back, Clermont-Ferrand, for pizza and for more !